Wines of France / Champagne / Moussy / Ruelle-Pertois
Champagne Ruelle-Pertois — Côte des Blancs
Moussy, Vallée de la Marne
Ruelle-Pertois was the first grower-producer in the Côte des Blancs with whom I began working continuously. I first heard about them back in 1999 not in Champagne but, oddly, in the Armagnac region. There I shared a couple of bottles with Martine Lafitte at Domaine Boingneres, and really enjoyed what I was drinking but was more interested in talking to her. About 6 months later on another visit, we once again had an aperitif. This time I made sure to take more note of the bottle: Ruelle-Pertois, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée de Reserve. Martine told me that the Ruelle’s were long-time pals of the Lafittes, with their friendship dating back over half a century. She gave me their number and a couple of weeks later I sent them a fax (yes that was once a thing). As the millennium was rapidly approaching, the Ruelles told me that they had no champagne to sell; all had been reserved by their habitual clients. So, I waited until 2000 and went to see them the next time I was in the Champagne region. Fortunately, the situation had changed and shortly thereafter, I began importing their champagnes. 
Virginie, Martine, Michel and Benoit Ruelle in Moussy
Reulle-Pertois is located in Moussy (pronounced Moose-E), a charming village that straddles the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. Both Michel Ruelle and his wife Martine Pertois had parents that produced champagne. When they married in the early 1970’s, they formed their own house and set up camp in the village. When they officially retired, their son Benoit and daughter Virginie took the reins of the domaine.
Ruelle-Pertois disgorging machine
The family owns 6 hectares of vines from which they make just under 4,000 cases. About a hectare of Pinot Meunier is in Moussy, while a hectare of Pinot Noir is in neighboring premier cru village Pierry. The family’s Chardonnay is planted in the grand cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly and Cramant. With such large percentages of grand cru-classified grapes, these champagnes represent some of the greatest values in a portfolio full of values.
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Ruelle-Pertois 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée de Reserve” Brut NV
100% Chardonnay, with some grown in Pierry, and around 90% from grand cru vineyards in Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. The wine is a blend of 2 vintages and spends 6 years on its lees. 7 grams dosage. Bright notes of citrus fruit with underlying complexity of crème brûlée. "The Ruelle-Pertois NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvee de Reserve [L21] leads with a delightful nose of peony, apple blossom, lime, grapefruit, and apricot, which presage the character of a juicy, brightly citric, yet at the same time subtly creamily textured palate. A faint bite and muskiness of rose radish combines with light chew of apple skin and piquancy of lemon rind for invigoration, while a salinity that was enhanced a day after opening serves to milk the salivary glands in a sustained finish. Interestingly, I found this cuvée texturally more interesting and more transparent to flavor subtleties than the corresponding and in principle superior, grand cru-rated 2006 vintage Blanc de Blancs. But that wine was more concentrated and energetic...Enjoy this excellent value in Champagne over the next couple of years. 91 points.“--Robert Parker's Wine Advocate "Light gold. Vibrant lemon and green apple scents are complemented by deeper hints of toasty lees and hazelnut. Silky and open-knit, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a hint of sweet butter. Shows good lift and energy on the finish, which features subtle mineral and lemon curd qualities. 90 points."—Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 
Ruelle-Pertois Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésime
Made of 100% Chardonnay from the family’s grand cru vineyards in Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. Disgorged to order, usually spending on average 8 years sur lie. 7-gram dosage. Lemon curd and a touch of brioche are present on both the nose and palate. Beautiful, fine bubbles emit lovely lemon custard notes wonderfully enhanced by a touch of crème brûlée. "Light, bright yellow. Heady, complex aromas of ripe citrus and orchard fruits, with a suave floral element and a chalky mineral overtone. Taut and densely packed, offering vibrant lemon pith, tangerine and pear flavors and a late jolt of salty minerality. Closes with excellent clarity and length, along with lingering zesty mineral and citrus pith notes. 92 points."--Vinous Media (2007 vintage) "The Ruelle-Pertois 2006 Brut Blanc de Blancs (from their holdings in Chouilly) leads with leesy, nutty, and prickly-musky, radish like aromas, behind which come intimations of those fruits that will come to juicily dominate the palate: apple, lemon, pineapple, and zesty tangerine. There is an alluring sense of levity – though this wine is grainier in texture than the corresponding non-vintage “Reserve” – and some bittersweet floral notes show through here. Salt, iodine, radish, and toasted nuts lend mouthwatering and incisive invigoration to a sustained, penetrating, and energetic finish. This fine value seems wound up so as to keep showing well for 3-4 more years. 91 points."--Robert Parker's Wine Advocate |