About two hours drive south of Paris in north-central France sits the Loire River Valley, with some of the country’s finest vineyards, especially for white wine. From these vineyards come a wide range of styles and types of wine, including crisp mineral-driven whites, serious but refreshing rosés, lighter bodied reds, surprising sparkling wines and sweet wines to rival the great Sauternes. Situated along the Loire River (longest in France) from the Muscadet region near Nantes on the Atlantic Coast, to the region of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, the vineyards vary widely in their geography, geology and climate.
The region (originally developed as a winegrowing area by the Romans in the 1st Century AD) is generally divided into three sub-regions: the Lower Loire Valley (Pays Nantais), the Middle Loire Valley (Anjou, Saumur and Touraine), and the Upper Loire Valley (Centre). Each of these sub-regions is known for different grapes and styles of wine: the Pays Nantais for its crisp, lively whites from the Melon de Bourgogne grape; the Middle Loire Valley for its elegant Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc wines; and the Upper Loire Valley for its zippy, mineral Sauvignon Blanc. Throughout these sub-regions can also be found several secondary (but no less worthy) grapes: the Tressallier grape of Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule, the Romorantin of Cheverny, the Menu Pineau and Groslot of Touraine and the Gros Plant of Nantes. There is also some Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gamay, Malbec, Pineau d'Aunis, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir.
Here is a rundown of our appellations and producers from the Loire Valley:
Pays Nantais Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Wines from this AOC in the far west of the Loire Valley, just southeast of Nantes and not far from where the Loire empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come exclusively from the Melon de Bourgogne (aka Muscadet) grape. Soils here vary from chalk to schist to granite, with various amounts of clay and sand composing the topsoil. Because of the Melon de Bourgogne grape’s rather neutral character, it is often the soil type that ultimately determines the richness and complexity of the wine. Most producers also age their wines sur lie, giving them a rounder texture and also making them a bit more age-worthy. Muscadet gained its AOC status in 1936 and, during the 1970s and 1980s, experienced widespread appeal around the world. Unfortunately this led to increased yields to satiate demand, something that ultimately led to Muscadet’s falling out of favor with the same fans it had initially seduced. The appellation is huge, spanning nearly 55 miles and producing more white wine than any other region of France. Since 2005, renewed interest has been focused on Muscadet, with many winemakers bottling specific soil types separately, reducing yields, aging their wines longer on their lees while achieving more complexity, minerality and length. At any level of complexity, these wines are known for being the perfect white bistro wines, and the perfect partner for the shellfish of the region (and oysters from anywhere!). Our Muscadet de Sevre et Maine producer, Domaine Pierre Bouchaud, makes two different Muscadets from two different sustainably farmed soil types (Le Perd Son Pain from schist and Pont Caffino from granite), as well as a Muscadet Château Thebaud (a more complex wine with more time on the lees) in certain vintages.
Middle Loire Valley Saumur-Champigny Saumur-Champigny is a visually astounding appellation, as many of its wineries (many from around the 13th century) are carved out of the limestone cliffs overlooking the Loire River. Viticulturally speaking, though, this region is mainly defined by its unique underlying soil, the tuffeau--a soft chalk from the Cretaceous period. The varying topsoils of the appellation then give each Chenin Blanc or Cabernet Franc-based wines their unique profiles. Our producer, Château du Hureau, has 21 separate vineyard plots, planted with Cabernet Franc and a bit of Chenin Blanc for the whites. The Tuffe cuvée is the entry level red, and we also bring in their more limited production and concentrated red wines, the Saumur Champigny Fours à Chaux, the Saumur Champigny Les Fevettes, and the Saumur Champigny Lisagathe, as well as their ethereal white Saumur Champigny Les Argiles.
Chinon Covering 26 communes and approximately 2,300 hectares just at the western edge of the Touraine region, Chinon is unique among Loire appellations in that it has become known almost solely for its leafy red wines from Cabernet Franc. That being said, small quantities of whites from Chenin Blanc and rosés are also produced. Soils are sandy-gravel and sandy-clay closest to the Loire River, alluvial deposit-based on the terraced vineyards along the Vienne River, and tuffeau-based on the hillside vineyards. As it does as in Saumur-Champigny, this tuffeau in the soils, being highly porous, absorbs rainwater that threatens to soak the vines’ roots if excessive, but gives back this water when necessary during drier periods of the vines’ growth. The microclimate here—a mild oceanic climate and nice southern sun exposure—is also ideal for growing Cabernet Franc. Baudry-Dutour is the overarching name for our Chinon producer, the result of the marriage of 4 high-quality domaines with vineyards in the top terroirs of the appellation. We bring in their young vine cuvée Amaranthe as well as one of their more serious wines, Clos des Marronieres, which we feel highlight was these truly special terroirs can do.
Touraine This sub-region has never been as highly regarded as the other Loire Sauvignon Blanc regions, and historically had few independent producers outside of the cooperative. But as Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé prices rose, it became known as the value white wine of the Loire, and more of a focus on quality can now be seen. Today it seems that every French importer has a white Touraine in his or her book, and with quality rising so fast, who knows how long the great prices can last? Our producer, Domaine Ricard, is standing firm on the level of quality they have always produced, but still at the incredible prices since their beginning. Grapes had been grown on the property for five generations, but with the most recent generation came a new focus on quality, and the domaine became fully organic. We bring in a delightfully bright value wine called Petiot, a second old-vine white cuvee from a more sloped parcel called Pierre a Feu, and a white Touraine AOC Chenonceaux called Tasciaca. We also occasionally carry a food-friendly red wine from 100% Cot (Malbec) called Le Villain Petit Rouge and a sparkling Vin de France Le Vinsans Ricard.
Vouvray Situated within the Touraine district just east of Tours, this appellation is dedicated almost exclusively to Chenin Blanc—with more than 2,000 hectares planted it is by far the largest Chenin Blanc-producing region in France. Its microclimate, heavily influenced by its situation on a plateau with small streams and tributaries of the Loire River as well as its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, is uniquely suited for the development of the Botrytis cinerea (or noble rot) fungus that is welcomed in the production of sweet wines. However the region is known for its range of styles, from Sec to Demi Sec to Moelleux to Doux, and with sparkling wine in the mix too. Vouvray wines are also particularly known for their great ageability. One of our newest producers, Domaine de la Rouletière is a well respected Vouvray producer, and is run by the fifth generation of vignerons on the family’s 17 hectares of sloped vineyards. We currently bring in a sparkling Touraine Brut Rosé, a sparkling Vouvrays Extra Brut and a brilliant dry Vouvray made with 70 year old vines.
Upper Loire Valley Quincy The vineyards of Quincy are located in the eastern part of the Loire Valley in the Cher département. Quincy has a very long wine history. It was the first wine-growing region in central France to obtain its appellation status. The Cher River runs through the appellation and divided the occupied and unoccupied sides of France during World War II. Centuries earlier, a Benedictine monastery was located on the right side of the river and consequently, the majority of vines were planted on this side. Since that time, the majority of plantings has been on the rive gauche or left bank of the Cher. One of the big fears in Quincy is the spring frosts, which in 1991 wiped out a large part of the eventual harvest. In 2000, large windmills were installed throughout the vineyards of Quincy that spray warm steam in the air to prevent frost and damage to the vines. Soils in Quincy, primarily sand intermingled with gravel, have much less limestone than those of Sancerre and much less flint than those of Pouilly Fumé. This soil provides earlier budding and maturation, and the Quincy harvest precedes that of Sancerre by about a week. Sandy soil also gives Sauvignon Blanc (the only varietal permitted) a bit more acidity and a bit less aging potential. What results is a zippy white with plenty of citrus and herbal flavors, kept in check with an underlying minerality and crisp acidity. Domaine Adèle Rouzé has been run for over a decade by the daughter of a well-known vigneron, with grapes grown on old-vine parcels surrounding the village. She grows her grapes sustainably and crafts just one delicious stainless steel-aged Quincy.
Menetou Salon Perhaps the most similar tasting profile to Sancerre is wine from Menetou-Salon, an appellation that nearly borders its more famous (and more expensive) cousin. Located less than 10 kilometers to the southwest of Sancerre, Menetou-Salon is spread between 10 villages and totals about 500 hectares of vines (in comparison with Sancerre’s 2,600). It shares the same climate and similar soils as Sancerre, yet is not located along a river. The terrain is a little less sloped than Sancerre, and its soils are slightly richer, with more broken Kimmeridgian limestone pieces closer to the surface. The Sauvignon Blancs of Menetou-Salon often have less structure than those of Sancerre, and with a bit less aging potential. They are usually full of juicy citrus fruit and approachable shortly after their release. Like Sancerre, Menetou-Salon allows other colored wines, and red grapes cover just over half of its surface. Pinot Noir is the obligatory grape, and helps produce reds that are light, low alcohol and with good supporting acids, and rosé wines that are bursting with fruit and tightly-wound acidity.Domaine Jean Teilleris our well-loved producer from the region, having been practicing organic since 2010 and finally certified in 2017. They make an excellent Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir at surprisingly good prices.
Sancerre Sancerre, located at the eastern end of the Loire Valley, on the western banks of the Loire river, is known as the noble Sauvignon Blanc of the region. It is the sole grape variety permitted, and when one thinks of French wine made with that grape, Sancerre must come to mind first. The vineyards extend over 11 communes, each with their own network of hills, home to the appellation's top vineyards. Like in many wine regions in France, most producers have multiple vineyard holdings scattered across a number of different terrains and microclimates. The soils of these plots differ greatly but help to provide complexity found in Sancerre. The weakest soil is clay and flint, and has vines with the most superficial root system. Grapes coming from these vines, however, have good acidity and forward fruit that gives them a lot of immediate appeal. Another type of soil in other vineyards is called Portlandian, which combines limestone with pieces of chalk. This soil has good heat retention, giving the fruit from the vine a little more structure while still allowing plenty of fruit and floral aromas to emerge young. The third type of soil is called Kimmeridgian and combines clay with limestone. This soil is harder, and more difficult for the roots to permeate. However, the resultant wines have more structure and potential complexity. We are proud to import the wines of Domaine Etienne Daulny, perhaps the best priced Sancerre on the market today. The domaine’s basic cuvée is always one of our top sellers, and the impressive Clos de Chaudenay is a single vineyard cuvée from older vines on Kimmeridgian soils.
Pouilly-Fume The vineyards in the Pouilly Fumé appellation were originally established by Benedictine monks. Located about 15 kilometres south of Sancerre and on the opposite bank of the Loire River, the majority of the vineyards are planted on two types of soil common to Sancerre as well: Portlandian (Tithonian), cap rock with limestone and chalk; and Kimmeridgian, a mixture of clay and limestone. A lower strata of the vineyards is argilo-silex. This is a sand-based flint soil with hard, shiny green pieces formed from a mixture of clay (argile), limestone and silica. It is precisely this flint influence that helps give the Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly Fumé its own unique personality. These silex stones, when struck together, give the aroma of pierre a fusil (gun flint) or the smoky smell of caps. Our new producer, Domaine du Bouchot, is a champion of organic and biodynamic farming in the region, and we have just begun bringing in their entry level Pouilly Fumé, Le Domaine.