Wines of France / Champagne / Eric Rodez

Champagne Eric Rodez — Montaigne de Reims

Picture
Ambonnay, Montaigne de Reims
Eric Rodez is not only a highly regarded Champagne producer in Ambonnay, the renowned grand cru village in the Montagne de Reims; he is so dedicated to the village that he was also the mayor (2008-2014). With his wife Martine (and now his son, Mickaël) he runs this eponymous domaine. 
​The Rodez family has been producing their own Champagne for generations, not simply selling their grapes to large houses. Records show that Jean-Baptiste produced in 1757, Marie-Louis in 1786, Louis in 1819, Eugene in 1850, Camille in 1877, Pol in 1905 and Jean in 1931. Each generation has added several small parcels of vineyards, giving them additional material with which to blend. Eric's son Mickaël patiently waited his turn in line and then became the domaine’s vineyard manager, as the 9th generation of the family! His son Pol-Auguste will perhaps soon be the 10th.
The Rodez Vineyards
Eric has 9 hectares of Pinot Noir planted along the south- and southeastern-facing slopes of Ambonnay. Additionally, along the southeastern slopes, where the soil is a bit lighter and finer, sit 7 hectares of Rodez Chardonnay. The Pinot Noir gives full-bodied structure and a dense fruitiness, while the Chardonnay is more lively, nervous and floral—providing delicacy and a “feminine” counterpart to the Pinot. 
The vineyards are worked in a traditional way, just like Mickaël’s great-grandparents once worked the soils. They have always hesitated to use the word organic, because they are not certified. But as a grower, Eric (and now Mickaël) never uses pesticides, fertilizers or synthetic sprays on his plants. They plow their soils and limit their yields through careful pruning. They have worked biodynamically for several years now, and in 2012 received the Haute Valeur Environnmentale (HVE) certificate given to farmers who achieve organic farming but also biodiversity and water management on their farms.​
Blending Drives the Melody
About 70% of Rodez Champagne is fermented and aged in oak. Malolactic fermentation is generally blocked to retain acidity.
Champagne Eric Rodez “Cuvée de Crayères”
This brut champagne is made with a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, with 40% to 45% reserve wines used in the blend. Pinot Noir brings body and structure, Chardonnay conveys delicacy and elegance. The nose is floral with a hint of citrus fruits. The palate is balanced and dense.
Champagne Eric Rodez Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut NV
Brut champagne produced exclusively from several different harvests of Chardonnay. In fact, this cuvée normally sees 5 or 6 different vintages in order to ensure the same delicacy between years. Very flowery and delicate, and much more sensual than champagnes made with strictly high percentages of Pinot Noir.
Champagne Eric Rodez “Cuvée des Grandes Vintages” Grand Cru NV
This could be called Rodez’ take on Krug’s Grand Cuvée—70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay—and is created from the best grapes (from various parcels—average age of the vines is 33 years old) in the best years. For example, a recent version was: 30% from 2004, 21% from 2002, 18% from 2000, 13% from 1999, 9% from 1998, 6% from 1996, and 2% from 1995. The wine is vinified 100% in used oak barrels and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 4 grams per liter (extra brut). 
Champagne Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Brut “Les Fournettes” 2009
This masterful Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir) is always a blend of 5 or 6 great vintages coming from various grand cru parcels. Around 75% of the wine is vinified in used wood, 25% in enamel tank. About 35% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 5 grams per liter (extra brut). It has a lovely deep gold color, and expressive notes of candied fruits on the nose. On the palate it is fresh and balanced with a long finish.
In addition to working with the family vineyards, Eric also worked at Krug for several years. It was there (where they are known for blending many different parcels and vintages) that he really developed his passion for blending. While many Champagnes are mostly from one year with perhaps a small amount of the previous vintage or two blended in, Rodez relies heavily on reserve wines and often blends anywhere from 5-10 different vintages in his final cuvées. 
For Eric, this is the most secret and individualistic part of his work. As he says: "It is a real pleasure to stand in front of a wide range of samples from a current year to which we'll add numerous wines from previous years. It's the creation of something new, like putting musical notes down on paper. And you're never sure where the melody will go.” “You try to direct it but it's like walking up a circular staircase without knowing where it will lead," he adds. "I find that incredibly exciting." 

Rodez Champagnes are excellent—rich yet elegant, vinous yet complex, and delicious in every sense of the word. In addition, with components from wines going back sometimes a decade, they are tremendous values!
Champagne Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Brut “Les Beurys” 2008
100% Pinot Noir coming from a single south-facing vineyard with chalky soils in grand cru Ambonnay. The wine is vinified in small oak barrels and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Dosage is a mere 2 grams/liter (extra brut). With its highly expressive nose of dried and candied fruits, this is a very enticing glass of champagne. On the palate it is powerful yet fresh and balanced, with a long finish.