Wines of France / Savoir and Bugey / Savoir / Chignin / Domaine Anne-Sophie et Jean-François Quénard
Domaine Anne-Sophie et Jean-François Quénard
Chignin, Savoie This small domaine lies in one of the most beautiful spots of Chignin, next to the Tour Villard (part of the ruined Château de Chignin). After many years of family winemaking history here (since 1644!), Jean-François Quénard took over responsibilities from his father Jean-Pierre in 1987. Having already studied at wine school in Dijon, Burgundy (incidentally, with Yves Chéron from Domaine du Grand Montmirail in Gigondas) Jean-Francois also later studied winemaking in Bordeaux and California. He was joined by his wife Catherine, and together they gradually grew the domaine from its original 5-hectare size. More recently one of their 4 children, Anne Sophie, got her viti-vinicultural degree from the prestigious Beaune wine school and joined her parents.
Over the past few years, the wines of Savoie, the small area nestled between Italy and Switzerland in the foothills of the Alps, have become more and more popular due to their low alcohol and energetic, refreshing qualities. Chignin is the Savoie cru seen most outside this mountainous region, and its wines are made with the local grape Jacquère. Vigneron Jean-Francois Quenard and his daughter Anne-Sophie hail from one of the many Quenard families making wine in this small village. They are frequently written about in the serious wine press for their wines bursting with fruit while retaining their Alpine tension. A recent certification for their organic farming, led by Anne-Sophie, has only accelerated their ascension as one of the top domaines in the region.
Jean-François et Anne-Sophie Quénard
Today the domaine is comprised of 19 hectares sitting on the region’s typical limestone-clay, optimally exposed slopes. The family has a viicultural philosophy rarely found these days, believing that there is a “spiritual dimension to tending to the vines” that “humbles” them. They are well on their way to full organic conversion, and even before taking that step have always treated their vineyard land with the utmost respect. Yields are kept low, harvests are 90% by hand, and each parcel is vinified separately using indigenous yeasts. Most of the basic whites are vinified and aged in stainless steel, while a couple of the higher whites and the reds are aged (for 9-18 months depending on the cuvée) in 300-liter fûts. Reds are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Jean-François Quénard
Note that it is important to keep track of first names in Chignin, as there are a number of wine producers named Quénard, including Andre and Michel Quénard and Raymond Quénard. Seems like Quénard is the Smith and Jones of the Alps! But of course we think our Quénard is the most important one to know…
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Chignin - Vers Les Alpes The 2023 Chignin Vers les Alpes gets an updated label this vintage and a change in the cuvée name, but remains an excellent quaffer that has flavors of zesty citrus, mountain herbs and hints of tonic water, all qualities that allow us to affectionately call it the Muscadet of the Mountains. Enjoy it well-chilled as if just drawn from a cold mountain stream! The Chignin is made with 100% Jacquère from 40-year-old vines planted on clay and limestone soils. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks, with partial malolactic fermentation.
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Chignin “Anne de la Biguerne” This cuvée is made from 1 hectare of 65-year-old Jacquere vines, grown on clay and limestone soils. After being harvested by hand, the grapes undergo a long fermentation with full malolactic. The lees are stirred in the tank for two months to give the wine additional richness and complexity. Production is just over 600 cases a year. The resulting wine has more density and length, making it ideal with trout in a light cream sauce or richer seafood like scallops.
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Chignin-Bergeron “Chez Les Béroux” The Chignin-Bergeron is made with pure Roussanne, known locally as Bergeron, grown on steep slopes littered with gravel that has fallen from the mountain slopes above. Aged on its lees in stainless-steel and cement tanks, it shows notes of fresh stone fruit, honey, and a mountain minerality that demands another glass. Try it with some local sand dabs this time of year for a delicious SF treat.
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Roussette de Savoie “Anne Sophie” Finally the Roussette de Savoie, named after Anne-Sophie, is made with pure Altesse, grown on steep hillsides, and aged in a combination of cement eggs, amphora, and demi-muids barrels. This is the richest of the Quenard wines, with notes of exotic white fruit, bright acids, and a long, lingering finish. Try this with a filet of halibut or salmon.
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Persan “Les Deux Jean” Persan is an ancient Savoyard varietal that has seen a small resurgence in recent years. Now with 20 hectares scattered throughout the region today, more than just locals are able to experience its intriguing character. Originating from a similar terroir to the Mondeuse in Saint Jean de la Porte, these 15 to 35 year-old vines are planted on a slope of limestone rich soils. As with everything chez Quenard, the grapes are hand-harvested and fermented using indigenous yeasts without sulfur added. Aging is in a combination of stainless steel and 600l demi muid. The nose of this highly unique wine positively bursts from the glass with red fruits, rose petals, dried herbs and slight smoky notes. On the palate it has further flavors of alpine flowers and red fruits like cranberries, and is delightfully fresh, medium bodied and low alcohol. All of this makes it a versatile accompaniment to tapas or charcuterie, or if you buy a bottle now, stash it for the fall and your Thanksgiving table.
Domaine Jean-François Quénard Mondeuse “Elisa” Mondeuse being one of the two principal red grapes of the Savoie region, this wine is one of the domaine’s finest. Emerging from a top red wine terroir, Saint Jean de la Porte, a small village located next to the more famous Arbin, this pure Mondeuse is produced from 40+ year old vines. Vinified and aged in demi-muid, its deep color is an inviting dark purple, followed by aromas of crimson fruits and mountain herbs. On the palate it is approachably round and full of finesse, with velvety supporting tannins. Excellent with veal dishes, many cheeses and chocolate desserts.
Trying to find the right Quenard in Chignin can be difficult.