Wines of France / Burgundy / Northwest Burgundy / Chablis / Domaine Bernard Defaix
Domaine Bernard DefaixDomaine Bernard Defaix is a superb address for classically styled Chablis of character. We are very excited to offer these new releases from this excellent domaine. A fourth generation estate started by Bernard with two hectares in 1959, the domaine is now run by Bernard's two sons Sylvain and Didier along with Didier's wife Héléne. Based in the village of Milly on Chablis' left bank, the domaine now comprises 27ha with enviable parcels in the heralded 1er Crus of Cote de Lechet, Les Lys, and Vaillons.
The estate was certified organic in 2009, with a natural way of farming and production in practice for many years prior. Some tenets of Biodynamic farming are also employed including horn manure, horn silica, and various herbal teas to fight parasites and stimulate vitality. Fermentation is with natural yeast in a majority of stainless steel, however used wood is employed in some of the cuvee stepping up the range. The resulting wines are lively and incisive, with plenty of depth and concentration, culminating in salivating, mineral driven finishes. There is much to admire here, and we hope you enjoy them as much as we do!
JJ Clifton and Hélène Defaix 2024
“The goal is to preserve and enhance the characteristics of each vineyard and to let them express themselves into our precise, pure and mineral wines.” -- Héléne Defaix
"This domaine wins my vote for the region’s pound-for-pound best. Defaix owns a large holding in the Premier Cru Côte de Léchet, and makes the most of the opportunity with a wonderfully subtle and intriguingly lime-scented example." -- Jason Jacobeit, New Wine Review "The wines have excellent concentration and perfect balance, which should enable them to be approachable young but have no trouble aging. They remind me quite a bit of a combination of 2021 and 2020, with the classicism and transparency of the former allied with the richness and seductive textures of the latter." -- Didier Defaix on the 2022 vintage 
Domaine Jaeger-DefaixHélène Jaeger-Defaix took over her first family vineyard in Rully 1er cru from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in 2002. The Niepce family's roots run deep in the village, as they have been winegrowers here dating back to the 16th century. Hélène's great-grandfather, Henri Niepce, was instrumental in achieving and promoting Rully’s AOC status in the 1930s. It was long Hélène's dream to carry on the family tradition. By 2005 Hélène and her husband Didier Defaix managed all of the family's Rully vines, in total 4.5 hectares situated in some of the most prestigious crus of the village. By 2012 everything was certified organic. Since then they’ve built a strong reputation for refreshingly elegant Chardonnay and juicy Pinot Noir from this micro-estate. With vineyards only minutes from the Côte de Beaune, along with a similar aspect and soil type, the wines of Rully should be at the very top of the list for those looking for outstanding value in Burgundy. Those at this address only solidify that statement. While quite limited, they are certainly not to be missed.
"We enjoyed a pretty straightforward growing season in 2022 as other than some hydric stress, there was little else of consequence and certainly nothing like we were up against in 2021. We picked from the 27th of August and the fruit was essentially spotless. Yields were average to slightly above average with good ripeness levels that came in between 12.5 and 13.2% for the whites and 12.7 to 13% for the reds. The skins in both varieties were quite thick so we had to press carefully for the whites and vinify lightly for the Pinot, in fact we did almost no punching down. As to the wines, they're clearly on the riper side yet don't lack for freshness or energy. I think they'll be popular as they should drink well young but there is sufficient density such that they should age well too over the medium-term." -- Didier Defaix on the 2022 vintage in Rully 
Jaeger-Defaix Rully 1er Cru Blanc Les Cloux 2022
Les Cloux is one of the revered 1er Crus of Rully, located up slope from the 1er Cru Chapitre on a steep slope full of limestone. Fermented and aged in barrique with an 18 month elevage, it is fleshy and full of fruit, balanced with a mineral undertone and a rich structure. "Here the wood treatment is more subtle on the very pretty and more floral-suffused nose of citrus, anise and white orchard fruit scents. There is a finer texture to the punchier medium weight flavors that culminate in a bone-dry, balanced and even more persistent finale. The underlying tension is palpable and overall, this chiseled effort is very good and a wine that should amply repay mid-term keeping." -- Burghound 
Jaeger-Defaix Rully 1er Cru Rouge Clos du Chapitre 2022
Clos du Chapitre is a monopole of the domaine, located within the 1er Cru Chapitre and surrounded by a stone wall. A parcel of just over 1ha, it is located directly behind the family house. Aging is in barrique, up to 50% new depending on the vintage, with a 16-18 month elevage. Richly fruited and adorned with spice, this elegantly structured Pinot delivers a classically Burgundian experience, and one that will improve with near term cellaring. "This is aromatically similar to the Préaux but with a slightly spicier quality and in particular, black pepper. Once again I like the mid-palate texture to the succulent but punchy flavors that conclude in a firm, mildly rustic and better balanced finale that is structured enough to repay 5 to 8 years of keeping." -- Burghound |
Petit Chablis 2023
Produced on the flatter grounds of Chablis, Petit Chablis is characterised by freshness. Its pale robe and its vivacity redolent of mineral hints convey the subtlety of Chardonnay grown on Kimmeridgian soil and aged in stainless steel. "Aromas of petrol and mineral reduction overshadow the citrus and green apple scents at present. Once again there is very good energy to the seductively textured medium weight flavors that conclude in a bitter lemon zest-tinged finale. This is one of those wines that you just feel like drinking as it's so refreshing." -- Burghound 
Chablis 2023
Defaix's Chablis vines are spread out over 12ha, allowing a wide palette to craft a wine of freshness, power and tenacity. Displaying a dominance of mineral notes with touches of citrus frutis, it is focused and poised, making a perfect partner for seafood, fish, or white meats. "This is aromatically quite similar to the Petit Chablis but with more evident iodine character. The delicious and vibrant if again not especially dense flavors exude a subtle minerality on the precise and youthfully austere finale that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity. This is quite good and worth a look." -- Burghound 
Chablis Vieilles Vigne 2022
The Chablis Vieille Vigne emerges from a special 1ha site of 50+ year old vines with a perfect exposure in Milly. The idea is to highlight a classic Chablisien terroir of distinction. 25% is fermented and aged in barrique to accentuate texture and depth, with the remaining 75% in stainless steel to capture focus and freshness. Together they offer a rich, ample example with an intense, fossil filled finish. "A slightly more prominent dollop of wood sets off ripe and fresh aromas that include notes of petrol, essence of pear, just sliced apple and a hint of iodine. There is both a lovely sense of vibrancy and detail to the more concentrated medium-bodied flavors where the abundance of sappy dry extract confirm the old vine influence, all wrapped in a more complex and lingering finale. This is a quality villages that is worthy of your interest." -- Burghound 
Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet 2022
With 8ha on the slopes surrounding Milly, the Defaix's produce the reference point example of this excellent 1er Cru. When some of the parcels were planted, impressive fossils of Exogyra Virgula (an extinct genus of oyster) were discovered, perfectly preserved. The remarkable stony and sunny soil is captured in this powerful and complex wine. It has exceptional aging potential, where it flourishes to express mineral aromas reminiscent of gunflint. Delicious with fish or poultry in a butter or cream sauce. "Moderate wood is present on the vaguely exotic nose of white and yellow peach, iodine and algae nuances. There is impressive density and intensity to the utterly delicious and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that also exude a subtle minerality on the tangy, succulent and bone-dry finale that is like sucking on an oyster shell. Good stuff and well-worth considering." -- Burghound 
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2022
Bougros is situated on the west/south-west extremity of the Grand Cru slope, and the Defaix's parcel is located at the top with excellent sun exposure. Fermented and aged in barrique with some battonage, the 18 month elevage in a very cold cellar allows for natural clarification. White flowers including honeysuckle and prominent mineral notes offer intrigue, while the palate is fully textured and structured allowing for plenty of development in time. Perfect with grilled or steamed turbot. "There is excellent Chablis typicity to the aromas of cool pear, mineral reduction and shellfish. The medium weight flavors aren't quite as concentrated or refined though they are definitely more powerful, especially long on the robust and borderline rustic finale." -- Burghound 
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