Wines of France/ Southwest / Jurançon / Clos Lapeyre
Clos Lapeyre - Jurançon
Jurançon, Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Jurançon winemaker Jean-Bernard Larrieu is head of the family-owned Clos Lapeyre (no relation to Domaines Lapeyre Guilhemas). He lives just down the road from the domaine with his wife and two daughters, with whom he insists on speaking the local patois or dialect. The winery has been in existence since the first World War, at which time the Larrieu family made more money from the sale of peaches and cows than from wine. Later, in the 1960s, more emphasis was placed on grapes, which were sold to the local coopérative. The bulk of the estate's money, however, came from strawberries grown on the property. In the early 1970s, the family were the first to replant their vines on terraces, something that has now become common in Jurançon. This beautiful system, in which vines are planted in a semicircle—like an amphitheater—guarantees better exposure to the sun, encouraging further ripeness of late-harvest crops. 
Jean-Bernard Larrieu stands by his terraced vines
The property currently covers 18 hectares, the majority of which have a southern exposure. The soil is a mixture of clay and silt, with several chalky areas. Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng comprise the majority of plantings, although Courbu still has its importance here. Average age of these vines is 15 years, but there is an older plot of 45-year-old vines. Yields are extremely low, with an average of 25 hl/ha. Lapeyre is certified organic and, since 2013, biodynamic. Larrieux works the vineyards with the philosophy of respecting nature (as well as the principles of biodynamism) and intervening as little as possible. Harvests are 100% manual (as mandated by the appellation), and 50% of the white grapes destined for the sec wines are destemmed.
In the chai, only indigenous yeasts are used and the wines are handled as naturally as possible. Depending on the wine, they are fermented in a combination of stainless steel and cement-lined tank, barrique and foudre. Wines are then aged in these same vessels, sur lie, for varying amounts of time but not more than one year. Four wines are produced on the property—two dry, two sweet—and an annual total of around 70,000 bottles are produced.
© f. agharabi 2022
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Clos Lapeyre Jurançon Sec
100% Gros Manseng, always late harvested (usually beginning around October 15th!). Half of the grapes are destemmed, with a bit of cold skin maceration beforehand. The wine is then aged in tank sur lie with regular stirring of the lees, and bottled in the spring. Pale gold color. Dried apricot, peach and vanilla on the nose, along with a floral note. Additional hints of citrus fruit and toast in the mouth. Medium body. Long, clean finish. Like a hypothetical blend of Sauvignon Blanc (without the herbs) and Chenin Blanc. 
Vitatge Vielh de Lapeyre Jurançon Sec
The Vitatge Vielh (local dialect for old vines or vieille vignes) is made with 60% Gros Manseng, 25% Petit Manseng and 15% Petit Courbu, co-planted in a vineyard from 1945. Vines this old produce far less but the fruit they do give is intense and concentrated. The wine is aged in large, used oak barrels. The wine is replete with tell-tale Jurancon flavors of pineapple and passion fruit, with additional notes of vanilla and spice. This would pair well with medium to full-bodied fish (halibut, sea bass) as well as sheep’s milk cheese. 
Lapeyre "Evidéncia" Vin Nature
This is Lapeyre's natural wine, made from 2 selected demi-muids of the Vitatge Vielh wine. It is a blend of 1/3 of Petit Manseng, 1/3 Gros Manseng and 1/3 Courbu. After the malolactic fermentation, the wine was carefully tended to while being aged in barrels and then in vats for 9 months. It is unfiltered and unfined, and no sulfur is added. On the nose it has pleasant slightly oxidative notes and a certain nuttiness, and the palate is just an explosive mouthful of fruit. 
Lapeyre Jurançon "Tradition"
Switching over to the sweet stuff, but in 750-ml bottles and the Jurancon's real "traditional" wine. It comes from 60% Gros Manseng and 40% Petit Manseng, harvested at the end of the October and aged in tank. With about 40 grams of residual sugar, the suppleness of the fruit (notes of wildflower honey and yellow, ripe pineapple) makes itself known--fortunately so does the lasting acidity to keep the wine lively throughout. For lovers of sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, I can't help but point out the similarities that these wines have with their more famous brethren from central France. 
La Magendia de Lapeyre Jurançon Moelleux
100% Petit Manseng—the grapes are raisinated (passerillés) by the strong sun and warm southern winds, and not harvested until November, with 3, sometimes 4, pass-throughs (the last of which might happen in December). At this point the juice is harder to extract and pressing takes longer. The wine is then fermented for 2-3 months in new oak barrels, and aged for 12-18 months in those same barrels. Nuances of exotic fruits (pineapple, mango, passion fruit). Powerful, yet controlled toast and vanilla flavors, with a hint of additional wood spice. Plenty of fat on the palate is accented by a citrus note on the finish which helps lift the fruit to new levels. Very good length. 
Lapeyre Vin de France Amaros
This is the orange wine from Lapeyre, aged in amphora and without sulfur. 100% Gros Manseng is vinified as if it were a red grape, with prolonged skin contact. This slightly bitter characteristic marries well with the under ripe pineapple and dried apricot notes, creating a distinctive wine that pairs well with charcuterie and raw sheep's milk cheeses. |