Wines of France / Burgundy
Burgundy
Burgundy is in and of itself the stuff of wine legends—countless praises have been sung and odes written to the region since its birth, and the magical terroir of some of its most lauded producers continues to give them wines that can cause even the most jaded wine drinker to swoon. The prices, too, that Premier and Grand Cru Burgundies have been commanding for a decade or so reflect this ever-growing reverence for the region. It’s not a story we feel we can add much to—anything we can say about Burgundy has already been said—nor has it traditionally been our area of expertise or focus. Even so, on our trips to France over the years we have managed to discover several small producers in some lesser known, as well as some better-known, appellations. And of course, I do have a lot of good things to tell you about those people!
But first, the nitty-gritty of the wine region:
Burgundy is located in central eastern France, beginning 100 km south of Paris in Auxerre and stretching down to Macon in the south. It is bordered to the east by Franche-Comté, to the southeast by Rhône-Alpes, to the southwest by Auvergne, to the north by Champagne and Ile-de-France, and to the west by the Centre region. It has a continental climate characterized by cold winters and hot summers. The region is divided into several sub-regions (a few of them quite legendary): The Yonne Département in the northwest (containing the famous Chablis AOP, St. Bris and Irancy), the Côte d’Or (itself divided into the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune), the Côte Chalonnaise and the Maconnais. The famous limestone and marl (limestone mixed with clay) soils with which the entire region is blessed contribute to the much-lauded minerality of the wines. Throughout Burgundy, nearly all whites are 100% Chardonnay (except for Aligoté, a little Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc in St Bris) and nearly all reds are 100% Pinot Noir (except for some areas that use some Gamay).
Burgundy is located in central eastern France, beginning 100 km south of Paris in Auxerre and stretching down to Macon in the south. It is bordered to the east by Franche-Comté, to the southeast by Rhône-Alpes, to the southwest by Auvergne, to the north by Champagne and Ile-de-France, and to the west by the Centre region. It has a continental climate characterized by cold winters and hot summers. The region is divided into several sub-regions (a few of them quite legendary): The Yonne Département in the northwest (containing the famous Chablis AOP, St. Bris and Irancy), the Côte d’Or (itself divided into the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune), the Côte Chalonnaise and the Maconnais. The famous limestone and marl (limestone mixed with clay) soils with which the entire region is blessed contribute to the much-lauded minerality of the wines. Throughout Burgundy, nearly all whites are 100% Chardonnay (except for Aligoté, a little Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc in St Bris) and nearly all reds are 100% Pinot Noir (except for some areas that use some Gamay).
There is an undocumented belief that the Celts first farmed these lands, followed of course by the documented Romans around the 2nd century. But it was the monks of the Charlemagne era who had the biggest role in shaping Burgundy into what it is today, in that they astutely noticed the extreme variation in quality between different sub-regions and even different plots of land within these sub-regions. They were on to something big (at least if you like wine!), and this was the precursor to the modern cru system and the foundation for a way of thinking about differences between terroirs. In fact in Burgundy, each particular vineyard plot is referred to as a climat, which further divides the already well-delineated Burgundy map.
And with that, let’s get an overview of the Burgundians in our portfolio.
And with that, let’s get an overview of the Burgundians in our portfolio.
Yonne Département — Northwest Burgundy
St. Bris
Saint-Bris is the only appellation in Burgundy where the obligatory white grape is Sauvignon Blanc. The commune lies about 15 kilometers southwest of Chablis and seven kilometers southeast of Auxerre in the Yonne département. The name of the village comes from the name of the Christian martyr, Sanctus Priscus (Saint Prix in French). His name was attached to the village until after the French Revolution when it became Saint-Bris, and later Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Much earlier, by the 12th century, there were nearly 1,100 hectares under vine, with over 450 wine growers. Nearly all of these vines were knocked out, however, when the dreaded phylloxera louse ravaged the vineyards at the end of the 19th century. Today, 550 hectares of vines surround the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Most of these vines are planted on the flatter ground or plateau formed by Portlandian limestone from the Tithonian age. Saint-Bris was considered a VDQS (Vin de Qualité Superieur) after 1974 and, in 2001, finally gained appellation status for the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
St. Bris
Saint-Bris is the only appellation in Burgundy where the obligatory white grape is Sauvignon Blanc. The commune lies about 15 kilometers southwest of Chablis and seven kilometers southeast of Auxerre in the Yonne département. The name of the village comes from the name of the Christian martyr, Sanctus Priscus (Saint Prix in French). His name was attached to the village until after the French Revolution when it became Saint-Bris, and later Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Much earlier, by the 12th century, there were nearly 1,100 hectares under vine, with over 450 wine growers. Nearly all of these vines were knocked out, however, when the dreaded phylloxera louse ravaged the vineyards at the end of the 19th century. Today, 550 hectares of vines surround the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Most of these vines are planted on the flatter ground or plateau formed by Portlandian limestone from the Tithonian age. Saint-Bris was considered a VDQS (Vin de Qualité Superieur) after 1974 and, in 2001, finally gained appellation status for the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
Irancy
Irancy, 2 kilometers from the Yonne River, is surrounded by a large natural amphitheater of vines. Just to the southwest of Chablis, it is one of the most northern red grape-growing areas in France. Viticulture has been practiced in the region for at least twelve centuries, and the arrival of the monks in the 11th century saw even more focus on wine. But when phylloxera hit the region in the late 19th century, most of the vineyards were wiped out and it took the area nearly fifty years to recover. Then between the two World Wars, vineyards dwindled to less than 20 hectares. It was only after the liberation of France that the vineyards began to expand once again, and today the Irancy appellation has about 155 planted hectares. In the 1970’s and 1980’s, Irancy was a VDQS, but its producers were eventually allowed to label their bottles Bourgogne Irancy. Finally, in 1998, Irancy was awarded its own appellation, joining two other villages in northern Burgundy, Saint-Bris and Chablis.
Irancy, 2 kilometers from the Yonne River, is surrounded by a large natural amphitheater of vines. Just to the southwest of Chablis, it is one of the most northern red grape-growing areas in France. Viticulture has been practiced in the region for at least twelve centuries, and the arrival of the monks in the 11th century saw even more focus on wine. But when phylloxera hit the region in the late 19th century, most of the vineyards were wiped out and it took the area nearly fifty years to recover. Then between the two World Wars, vineyards dwindled to less than 20 hectares. It was only after the liberation of France that the vineyards began to expand once again, and today the Irancy appellation has about 155 planted hectares. In the 1970’s and 1980’s, Irancy was a VDQS, but its producers were eventually allowed to label their bottles Bourgogne Irancy. Finally, in 1998, Irancy was awarded its own appellation, joining two other villages in northern Burgundy, Saint-Bris and Chablis.
While a small amount of rosé is produced, the region produces mainly red wines made with Pinot Noir (which must account for at least 90% of the blend). Also permitted are the lesser-known Burgundy varieties César (a highly productive, late ripening variety that adds both color and tannin) and the nearly extinct Tressot (apparently a cross between Duras and Petit Verdot). The vineyards of Irancy are planted on slopes composed of Kimmeridgian limestone, often interspersed with cherry orchards. This highly-mineraled soil and a cool climate help to give the wines of Irancy bright acid and a mineral tang, which is very enjoyable in warmer weather when served with a light chill.
We are proud to be one of the few U.S. importers to bring in wines from these often overlooked, cool climate regions. Our St.-Bris and Irancy producer is Domaine Bersan and we consistently carry their high-quality, organic wines including their St. Bris and Irancy (from 100% old-vine Pinot Noir.)
We are proud to be one of the few U.S. importers to bring in wines from these often overlooked, cool climate regions. Our St.-Bris and Irancy producer is Domaine Bersan and we consistently carry their high-quality, organic wines including their St. Bris and Irancy (from 100% old-vine Pinot Noir.)
Chablis
The justifiably adored Chablis is the northernmost Burgundy appellation. It lies less than a two-hour drive from Paris on the route to Dijon. Here the vineyards’ (around 5,500 hectares planted) soils are from the Portlandian and Kimmeridgian periods. The latter, most significant for the culture of the vine, consists of Upper Jurassic limestone containing tiny oyster fossils — traces of a sea covering Burgundy and Chablis 150 million years ago. This terroir is the ideal ground for vines, particularly Chardonnay, which is the sole grape variety in Chablis. In fact, because of its cooler climate than southern Burgundy and the new world — and because new oak is less-frequently employed — it is often said that Chablis offers the most pure expression of Chardonnay on the planet.
The region consists of four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru Chablis and Grand Cru Chablis. The top levels are often fermented and/or aged in oak, making them excellent candidates for long aging (though most levels above Petit Chablis gracefully age for six or seven years). One of our newest additions to our portfolio, Domaine Gautheron, is located in Fleys, 4 km from the village of Chablis, and produces a range of high quality wines, from AOP Chablis to several Premier Crus (Vaillons, Mont de Milieu, Montmains, and l’Homme Mort).
The justifiably adored Chablis is the northernmost Burgundy appellation. It lies less than a two-hour drive from Paris on the route to Dijon. Here the vineyards’ (around 5,500 hectares planted) soils are from the Portlandian and Kimmeridgian periods. The latter, most significant for the culture of the vine, consists of Upper Jurassic limestone containing tiny oyster fossils — traces of a sea covering Burgundy and Chablis 150 million years ago. This terroir is the ideal ground for vines, particularly Chardonnay, which is the sole grape variety in Chablis. In fact, because of its cooler climate than southern Burgundy and the new world — and because new oak is less-frequently employed — it is often said that Chablis offers the most pure expression of Chardonnay on the planet.
The region consists of four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru Chablis and Grand Cru Chablis. The top levels are often fermented and/or aged in oak, making them excellent candidates for long aging (though most levels above Petit Chablis gracefully age for six or seven years). One of our newest additions to our portfolio, Domaine Gautheron, is located in Fleys, 4 km from the village of Chablis, and produces a range of high quality wines, from AOP Chablis to several Premier Crus (Vaillons, Mont de Milieu, Montmains, and l’Homme Mort).
Côte d’Or
Divided into two sub-regions (the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune), one of the most famous stretches of vineyard land in the world sits on a limestone ridge in the heart of Burgundy. The history of this region tracks that of the rest of Burgundy: the Romans brought viticulture to this region in the 3rd century A.D., the Benedictine and Cistercian monks of the Middle Ages did their part in creating and developing the concept of terroir, and by the 17th century, certain vineyards in the Côte d’Or were already enjoying excellent international reputations. But not until much later were these reputations actually made official—following in the footsteps of the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, the Agricultural Committee of Beaune decided to perform a similar classification of the Côte d’Or vineyards at the 1862 International Exhibition in London. Though this classification was much more limited than the modern version, it was the base upon which the 1930’s establishment of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards as AOPs was built.
Divided into two sub-regions (the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune), one of the most famous stretches of vineyard land in the world sits on a limestone ridge in the heart of Burgundy. The history of this region tracks that of the rest of Burgundy: the Romans brought viticulture to this region in the 3rd century A.D., the Benedictine and Cistercian monks of the Middle Ages did their part in creating and developing the concept of terroir, and by the 17th century, certain vineyards in the Côte d’Or were already enjoying excellent international reputations. But not until much later were these reputations actually made official—following in the footsteps of the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, the Agricultural Committee of Beaune decided to perform a similar classification of the Côte d’Or vineyards at the 1862 International Exhibition in London. Though this classification was much more limited than the modern version, it was the base upon which the 1930’s establishment of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards as AOPs was built.
Côte de Nuits
Stretching from Dijon to just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Cote de Nuits is most famous for its red wines. There are 14 communes and 6 with Grand Cru status. Because of its northerly position, the climate here can be temperamental (think hail and frost). However, the vineyards are planted on east and southeast facing slopes that receive ideal sun exposures, and many of the Premier and Grand Cru vineyards are also planted at higher elevations. The soils in the Côte de Nuits are widely varied (which is usually credited with the variety in flavors from the same grape from different sites) but there are a few things they have in common: most have a base of limestone with marl, mixed with some gravel and sand.
Some of the more famous communes of the region include Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot and Vosne-Romanee. Nuits-St-Georges is another widely famed village though it has no Grand Crus (only Premier Crus), and Marsannay and Fixin are villages that are often touted values. We are fortunate enough to import a couple producers who own small (sometimes tiny) parcels in these villages.
Stretching from Dijon to just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Cote de Nuits is most famous for its red wines. There are 14 communes and 6 with Grand Cru status. Because of its northerly position, the climate here can be temperamental (think hail and frost). However, the vineyards are planted on east and southeast facing slopes that receive ideal sun exposures, and many of the Premier and Grand Cru vineyards are also planted at higher elevations. The soils in the Côte de Nuits are widely varied (which is usually credited with the variety in flavors from the same grape from different sites) but there are a few things they have in common: most have a base of limestone with marl, mixed with some gravel and sand.
Some of the more famous communes of the region include Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot and Vosne-Romanee. Nuits-St-Georges is another widely famed village though it has no Grand Crus (only Premier Crus), and Marsannay and Fixin are villages that are often touted values. We are fortunate enough to import a couple producers who own small (sometimes tiny) parcels in these villages.
Domaine François Legros is our producer in Nuits-Saint-Georges. His basic Bourgogne Rouge and Nuits-Saint-Georges are excellent, but he also brings us a range of character-filled Premier Cru Nuits-Saint-Georges, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny, as well as a Premier Cru from the unique and rarely encountered Vougeot AOP.
Domaine Philippe Rossignol has just 7 hectares in Gevrey-Chambertin, and the father-son team make a great value Bourgogne Rouge, a Côte de Nuits Villages at half the price of the domaine’s 1er Crus, and an old vine Fixin (one of the lesser known Côte de Nuits appellations, delivering great value with muscular wines). These are followed by an old vine Gevrey-Chambertin AOP and a Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin—in short, a perfect range of wines to showcase this wonderful area.
Côte-de-Beaune
Moving south from Nuits-St-Georges we enter the Côte de Beaune (named for its central town and important wine center Beaune), which then runs about 25 more km south to the Dheune River. In the more northern and the far southern parts of this sub-region, the focus on red wines continues. But as we reach the communes in the center and a bit further south we begin to encounter some of the world's great Chardonnays. As in the Côte de Nuits, the soils are heavily limestone-influenced, and the Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards tend to be planted on slopes where drainage and exposure are better. There are then two hilly vineyard areas designated as Côte de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, followed in quality by the individual villages like St. Aubin or Pommard, then the Premier Crus which are named vineyards, and finally the Grand Crus, individual vineyards considered to be at the top of the heap.
Our Côte de Beaune domaines run the gamut of levels and styles, ensuring there is something for everyone.
Moving south from Nuits-St-Georges we enter the Côte de Beaune (named for its central town and important wine center Beaune), which then runs about 25 more km south to the Dheune River. In the more northern and the far southern parts of this sub-region, the focus on red wines continues. But as we reach the communes in the center and a bit further south we begin to encounter some of the world's great Chardonnays. As in the Côte de Nuits, the soils are heavily limestone-influenced, and the Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards tend to be planted on slopes where drainage and exposure are better. There are then two hilly vineyard areas designated as Côte de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, followed in quality by the individual villages like St. Aubin or Pommard, then the Premier Crus which are named vineyards, and finally the Grand Crus, individual vineyards considered to be at the top of the heap.
Our Côte de Beaune domaines run the gamut of levels and styles, ensuring there is something for everyone.
Domaine Denis Carré in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, is a domaine that was started with a dream and a lot of sweat. Carré did not come from a wine family but slowly worked his way into what he is today: a high quality, high value producer making delicious Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc and Rouge, Saint-Romain, old vine Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pommard, all at surprising prices. Especially unique are the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, so named (“high slopes”) because this lesser known appellation’s vineyards are at an elevation that ranges between 1,000 and 1,500 feet, well above the height of the more famous vineyards in the Côte d’Or.
And from Chorey-lès-Beaune we are proud to bring in the wines of Domaine Daniel Largeot, a well-respected producer whose wines are mostly enjoyed locally. For Burgundy fans looking for overachieving wines from unheralded appellations, this is one of our top domaines, another one whose wines over deliver for their price. Here they make a group of honest old school wines that don’t rely on new oak or any modern techniques to mask flaws. Those wines include our most popular Bourgogne Rouge, a lieu dit Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and a Beaune Premier Cru Greves.
It speaks volumes about the appellation's terroir that even without any grand cru vineyards, Meursault's wines are held up as some of the finest whites from Burgundy. This is an almost exclusively white wine appellation, and its wines are known for being some of the richer, more buttery Chardonnays in the entire region. There are a handful of hectares of Pinot Noir planted, but most of the reds produced fall under the northern neighbor appellation, Volnay (most of them specifically under Volnay Santenots). The appellation boasts several renowned premier cru and lieu dit sites (perhaps most famous of which are Charmes, Perrières and Genevrières), all of which sit on ideal limestone-rich soil. Our Meursault producer, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau, belongs to a family that has been growing wine here since the 16th century, and has always used only massale selection vines. We bring in limited amounts of the domaine's wines, ranging from their AOP Meursault to several Meursault Premier Cru wines, Volnay Premier Cru and even some Monthelie.
I like to say that the appellation where we find Vincent Charleux at Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils, Maranges, is “a Côte-D'Or in Saône-et-Loire's clothing." This tiny domaine is located about 4km southwest of Santenay, and has been in our portfolio for years, providing us with a reliably delicious Bourgogne Rouge, an old vine Maranges, a couple Premier Cru Santenays, and a few Premier Cru Maranges. These are some of our most appreciated Burgundies, and it’s not hard to see why after tasting them.
In the same area (Santenay) is the Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair, a domaine run by a mother and son, who were lucky enough to inherit parcels on some of the best terroirs of Saint-Aubin and Santenay. Using lutte raisonée the family hand crafts a small but sought- after line of elegant wines: Santenay Blanc, 3 Premier Cru Saint-Aubins, Santenay Rouge, and a couple Premier Cru red Santenays.
Domaine Bader-Mimeur (Château de Chassagne-Montrachet) can be found in Chassagne-Montrachet with around 5 hectares of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. From this tiny domaine we are able to bring you a Bourgogne Pinot and Chardonnay coming from just outside the Chassagne appellation, while their Chassagne plots lie within extreme proximity to Grand Crus Batard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet. With some vines the family owns outside of the Château’s holdings as well as purchased wines from trusted growers, they make an Aligoté, and old vine Chassagne-Montrachet, a St. Aubin Blanc Premier Cru En Remilly, a Meursault, a Pommard and a Volnay, which are all aged and bottled at the domaine.
Côte Chalonnaise
Just a bit further south from Santenay, and with much of the same geology, lies one of the great value wine-producing regions of France. The Côte Chalonnaise is named after the town Calon-Sur-Saône on the Saône River, an important trade river in both Celtic and Roman times. Beginning around the 1980's, as producers in the region began focusing more on quality than quantity, and as simultaneously prices in the Côte d'Or rose to never before seen levels, the Côte Chalonnaise started to be recognized as a go-to region for great value Burgundy. While the soils and climate of the region are fairly similar to those of the Côte d'Or, there are some subtle differences: slightly less rainfall, vineyards lying at lower altitudes and on outcroppings of limestone, and some iron deposits in some areas.
The Côte Chalonnaise is also known for its high-quality sparkling wine production, usually under the name Crémant de Bourgogne. Some of the fairly well-known appellations of the region are Bouzeron (the only Aligoté AOP in Burgundy), Rully (with 23 Premier Cru vineyards and much of the Cremant production), Mercurey (30 Premier Crus, almost all red), Givry (17 Premier Crus, almost all red) and Montagny (with 49 Premier Crus, all white).
Just a bit further south from Santenay, and with much of the same geology, lies one of the great value wine-producing regions of France. The Côte Chalonnaise is named after the town Calon-Sur-Saône on the Saône River, an important trade river in both Celtic and Roman times. Beginning around the 1980's, as producers in the region began focusing more on quality than quantity, and as simultaneously prices in the Côte d'Or rose to never before seen levels, the Côte Chalonnaise started to be recognized as a go-to region for great value Burgundy. While the soils and climate of the region are fairly similar to those of the Côte d'Or, there are some subtle differences: slightly less rainfall, vineyards lying at lower altitudes and on outcroppings of limestone, and some iron deposits in some areas.
The Côte Chalonnaise is also known for its high-quality sparkling wine production, usually under the name Crémant de Bourgogne. Some of the fairly well-known appellations of the region are Bouzeron (the only Aligoté AOP in Burgundy), Rully (with 23 Premier Cru vineyards and much of the Cremant production), Mercurey (30 Premier Crus, almost all red), Givry (17 Premier Crus, almost all red) and Montagny (with 49 Premier Crus, all white).
The Crémant de Bourgogne producer in our book, Vitteaut-Alberti, was introduced to me as “the best crémant in the region” by Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, a neighbor in Rully. And to this day I believe it is true—this rare only-Crémant producer (most make still wine plus Crémant as an afterthought and have it made and bottled elsewhere) reliably turns out some of the best Burgundian bubbles we’ve seen. Another superb value winery, their Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Blanc de Blancs, Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé and Cremant de Bourgogne Cuvée Agnès can compete with sparkling wine from any region in the world.
Speaking of Rully and Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, this lutte raisonée-farmed, 8 ½ hectare domaine has been bringing us several Premier Cru red and white Rully wines since 2010. Alongside Ponsot, we are proud to help raise awareness of this very fine vineyard area, which is often treated as a Burgundian second-class citizen.
Domaine Ragot hails from the well-regarded Givry appellation, which was the favorite of French King Henri IV (1553-1610) and continues providing Burgundy lovers with incredible values. This generations-old winery makes 9 different wines (3 of which are Premier Cru) on 9 hectares of old vines. Herbicides are avoided and no synthetic fertilizers used in farming these vines, and everything is done by hand. We are fortunate to carry the impressive results: a Givry Vieilles Vignes and a lieu dit Givry, as well as two excellent Premier Cru wines.
As I knew Mercurey to be an almost exclusively red wine appellation that typically produced full-bodied, spicy and fruity Pinot Noir (and once again, phenomenal values—are you noticing a theme here in the Côte Chalonnaise?), I am thrilled to work with Domaine Brintet in the AOP. His 11-hectare domaine provides us with a very traditional old-vine Mercurey AOP and two Mercurey Premier Cru that have become largely popular.
Mâconnais
The southernmost sub-region in Burgundy sits west of the Sâone River and derives its name from the town of Mâcon. The geography and soils of this area, originally planted by the Romans, is similar to that of the Côte d’Or but with less steep hills. Its clay-covered limestone soils make it uniquely suited for Chardonnay production, and over the years it has indeed become known for lower-priced yet elegant white Burgundies. The appellations here are straightforward: Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, specific villages permitted to put their names on the label with Mâcon (eg Mâcon-Lugny), Pouilly Fuissé, Pouilly-Loche, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé. Our two Mâconnais producers pretty much have it covered.
The southernmost sub-region in Burgundy sits west of the Sâone River and derives its name from the town of Mâcon. The geography and soils of this area, originally planted by the Romans, is similar to that of the Côte d’Or but with less steep hills. Its clay-covered limestone soils make it uniquely suited for Chardonnay production, and over the years it has indeed become known for lower-priced yet elegant white Burgundies. The appellations here are straightforward: Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, specific villages permitted to put their names on the label with Mâcon (eg Mâcon-Lugny), Pouilly Fuissé, Pouilly-Loche, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé. Our two Mâconnais producers pretty much have it covered.
Viré-Clessé
Viré-Clessé is the northernmost of the top-level AOPs within the Mâconnais area.
The villages Viré and Clessé were originally only permitted to call their wines Mâcon-Viré or Mâcon-Clessé. But the quality of these wines, produced exclusively from Chardonnay, began to escalate in the latter part of the 20th century, and eventually the two villages thought it best to apply for separate appellation status in order to distance themselves from the more generic Mâcon classification. Because the wines from the two so closely resembled each other, it was decided to roll them into a single appellation, which was created in February 1999. This new AOP elevated the Viré and Clessé wines to a new level—new rules regulating lower yields as well as residual sugar levels immediately enhanced quality.
The Viré-Clessé appellation now covers 430 hectares, including vineyards from the villages of Laizé, Montbellet, Viré and Clessé communes. The AOP spans two gentle slopes that run north to south between the Bourbonne and Mouge valleys, where altitudes range between 200 and 440 meters. The soil here contains less iron than that of Pouilly-Fuissé, and is primarily Jurassic limestone with some marl. Clay lies at the foot of the slopes, and mixed in are sandstone pebbles known as chailles. The presence of Cray (white limestone pebbles typical of the Mâconnais) ensure proper drainage.
Viré-Clessé is the northernmost of the top-level AOPs within the Mâconnais area.
The villages Viré and Clessé were originally only permitted to call their wines Mâcon-Viré or Mâcon-Clessé. But the quality of these wines, produced exclusively from Chardonnay, began to escalate in the latter part of the 20th century, and eventually the two villages thought it best to apply for separate appellation status in order to distance themselves from the more generic Mâcon classification. Because the wines from the two so closely resembled each other, it was decided to roll them into a single appellation, which was created in February 1999. This new AOP elevated the Viré and Clessé wines to a new level—new rules regulating lower yields as well as residual sugar levels immediately enhanced quality.
The Viré-Clessé appellation now covers 430 hectares, including vineyards from the villages of Laizé, Montbellet, Viré and Clessé communes. The AOP spans two gentle slopes that run north to south between the Bourbonne and Mouge valleys, where altitudes range between 200 and 440 meters. The soil here contains less iron than that of Pouilly-Fuissé, and is primarily Jurassic limestone with some marl. Clay lies at the foot of the slopes, and mixed in are sandstone pebbles known as chailles. The presence of Cray (white limestone pebbles typical of the Mâconnais) ensure proper drainage.
Domaine André Bonhomme was one of the principal initiators of the new Viré-Clessé appellation in the 1990’s, and has always been one of its most respected producers. From their 11 hectares on clay and limestone soils, the family organically crafts our Mâcon Villages Vieilles Vignes and three awesome Viré Clessé wines: Les Pierres Blanches (so called for the high presence of white stones in the vineyard’s soils), Cuvée Spéciale (a blend of older, high quality parcels) and Vieilles Vignes (from the oldest vine parcels), all of which are references of the appellation.
Pouilly-Fuissé
Certainly the most known and universally believed to be the most elegant wine appellation in the Mâconnais, this area was known simply as Pouilly a century ago. But in 1936 the appellation laws divided the region into Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.
Today Pouilly-Fuissé is making rich, full-bodied white Burgundy only from Chardonnay in four communes: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson. The symbols of the appellation are the rock formations Solutré and Vergisson, with many hillside vineyards lying along the former. These spectacular outcroppings are formed by hard fossil corals that have resisted erosion over their 200 million year history. Along their slopes, clay, limestone and limestone scree lie atop granite sub-soils to help form an excellent base for Chardonnay vines. At 200-300 meters altitude, most vines are planted with an east or southeastern exposure.
Even though the countryside and vineyards are spectacular, and at its best the wines show rich fruit buttressed by bright acids with good underlying minerality, Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get as much respect as it should for a few reasons. During the 1970’s, Pouilly-Fuissé became very popular in the United States, before falling out of favor and being replaced by Pinot Grigio. And as with many trends that have come and gone, we remember the wine for its negative traits: over-production, excessive oak or low-acid richness. Pouilly-Fuissé is also part of the greater Maconnais, from which many inexpensive wines originate. While fantastic for everyday consumption, these wines don’t have the clout or reputation that wines from further north in the Côte de Beaune have. So Pouilly-Fuissé seems locked in a tough spot: often too expensive for the everyday consumer but without the respect of the Burgundy snob who would rather drop the same amount of money on an inferior Chassagne-Montrachet.
Certainly the most known and universally believed to be the most elegant wine appellation in the Mâconnais, this area was known simply as Pouilly a century ago. But in 1936 the appellation laws divided the region into Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.
Today Pouilly-Fuissé is making rich, full-bodied white Burgundy only from Chardonnay in four communes: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson. The symbols of the appellation are the rock formations Solutré and Vergisson, with many hillside vineyards lying along the former. These spectacular outcroppings are formed by hard fossil corals that have resisted erosion over their 200 million year history. Along their slopes, clay, limestone and limestone scree lie atop granite sub-soils to help form an excellent base for Chardonnay vines. At 200-300 meters altitude, most vines are planted with an east or southeastern exposure.
Even though the countryside and vineyards are spectacular, and at its best the wines show rich fruit buttressed by bright acids with good underlying minerality, Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get as much respect as it should for a few reasons. During the 1970’s, Pouilly-Fuissé became very popular in the United States, before falling out of favor and being replaced by Pinot Grigio. And as with many trends that have come and gone, we remember the wine for its negative traits: over-production, excessive oak or low-acid richness. Pouilly-Fuissé is also part of the greater Maconnais, from which many inexpensive wines originate. While fantastic for everyday consumption, these wines don’t have the clout or reputation that wines from further north in the Côte de Beaune have. So Pouilly-Fuissé seems locked in a tough spot: often too expensive for the everyday consumer but without the respect of the Burgundy snob who would rather drop the same amount of money on an inferior Chassagne-Montrachet.
However, some of the best climats of the region still reliably produce world-class wines, and we think our Pouilly-Fuissé producer aptly demonstrates this. Domaine Parisse is run by a 7th generation brother-sister team named Sandrine and Christophe Thibert, who are working hard to prove that some of these climats deserve Premier Cru status (which they will soon have). Using much less new oak than is typical in the region, the domaine gives us beautiful Mâcon-Fuissé, Mâcon-Prissé, and Mâcon-Verzé, a Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes, and stunning Pouilly-Fuissé and Pouilly-Vinzelles from two noteworthy climats.
They also make a climat wine from neighboring Saint Véran, lying to the south of the famous rocky, fossil-rich limestone hill the Roche de Solutré. Generally a bit less rich and a bit more fresh than wines from Pouilly-Fuissé, wines from Saint-Véran are nevertheless also very ageable. Domaine Parisse’s, from the excellent Bois de Fées, is a lovely example.
They also make a climat wine from neighboring Saint Véran, lying to the south of the famous rocky, fossil-rich limestone hill the Roche de Solutré. Generally a bit less rich and a bit more fresh than wines from Pouilly-Fuissé, wines from Saint-Véran are nevertheless also very ageable. Domaine Parisse’s, from the excellent Bois de Fées, is a lovely example.